Dawn of the Dead M8+ WI6, 140m FA: Sean Isaac, Dave Thomson, Dec. 05.
Dave and I started on this line in 1998 but the smear has failed to form well enough until this winter. Dave came out of retirement to polish off this unfinished business. It takes a direct line to the upper ice of Monsieur Hulot climbing two new pitches to get there.
Approach: As for Monsieur Hulot across the snow ledge from the treed shoulder on the right. This ledge is spooky in poor conditions. There are some bolted belays and the odd single bolt so roping up and using a running belay may be a good option. The route itself begins 30m to the right of Nightmare on Wolf Street.
Gear: Small to medium Stoppers, Camalots #.3, #.4, #.5 and #.75 (1/2" to 1 1/2"), screws including stubbies, 20+ quickdraws including tripled-draws and screamers.
1) M8+ WI5, 40m. Begin just left of a 2-bolt anchor and climb past 2 bolts to gain a splitter crack (small to medium Stoppers). 4 more bolts lead over a small roof and past a hollow flake. Place a #.75 Camalot in a perfect crack to protect up to the big roof. Clip a bolt then lean out to place a #.5 Camalot near the lip of the roof. Commit to technical layback torques to turn the lip and continue up the narrowing crack to an alcove beneath another big roof (small Camalots). Clip 2 bolts out right before making awkward moves around the arete to the ice smear. 4 bolts protect the thin, steep ice blobs. Continue up easier angled but thin ice to a 2-bolt anchor on the right.
2) WI4, 30m. Thin ice leads to a snow ledge and a 2-bolt anchor behind the pillar.
3) WI6, 50m. Steep ice leads to a cave belay.
4) WI5, 20m. Continue up the final pillar to the top.
Descent: Rappel the route first from V-threads then from the 2-bolt anchors.