much-admired direct start to Caveman
(M9+) has been completed . . .
Top of the log.
Sling the log just above each point of fixed gear (nails). On
the first ascent, the most effective swinging technique involved whipping a
double length sling around the log and deftly catching it with the same hand.
Tree spurs are helpful.
in the Mud
(L14X) – twice as hard (but 1/8th as scaaaaary)
Cassius Spray, February 2002
Bottom of the log.
Have a bold climber climb Topside
With the slings in place, clip them with draws on your way up.
Falling is not recommended; the pro is regular, but the structural
integrity of the climbing medium is questionable.
The log is very dead.
Cassius Spray skipping an FGA
(Fixed Gear-aholics Anonymous) meeting.
Cassius Spray skipping an FGA (Fixed Gear-aholics Anonymous) meeting.
Cave Man Spire, L7-- (just visible below and left of Cassius in the photo above of Stick in the Mud).
FA: A Keener, later in February 2002
A noted local photographer climbed this committing route up a large free-standing wooden spire (also dead) just to the south of Caveman. He failed on his first attempt because of poor equipment choice (no crampons), but persevered and reached a subsidiary summit (end of the difficulties) on his second go...
Note: While some may fault this web site for reporting such climbing, I feel
that it's a major leap forward in standards and vision. Look for new crampons,
picks and screws from Black Diamond for this futuristic sport. A world cup may
be organized for 2010.