The much-admired direct start to Caveman (M9+) has been completed . . .


Topside Bottomfeeder (L4+X)

FA: The Ukraine Kid, February 2002

            Top of the log.  Sling the log just above each point of fixed gear (nails).  On the first ascent, the most effective swinging technique involved whipping a double length sling around the log and deftly catching it with the same hand.  Tree spurs are helpful.

 The Ukraine Kid elusively maintaining his anonymity on Topside Bottomfeeder.

Stick in the Mud (L14X) twice as hard (but 1/8th as scaaaaary) as WI7!

FA: Cassius Spray, February 2002

            Bottom of the log.  Have a bold climber climb Topside Bottomfeeder first.  With the slings in place, clip them with draws on your way up.  Falling is not recommended; the pro is regular, but the structural integrity of the climbing medium is questionable.

Environmental Note: The log is very dead.

 Cassius Spray skipping an FGA (Fixed Gear-aholics Anonymous) meeting.



Cave Man Spire, L7-- (just visible below and left of Cassius in the photo above of Stick in the Mud).

FA: A Keener, later in February 2002

A noted local photographer climbed this committing route up a large free-standing wooden spire (also dead) just to the south of Caveman. He failed on his first attempt because of poor equipment choice (no crampons), but persevered and reached a subsidiary summit (end of the difficulties) on his second go...


WG Note: While some may fault this web site for reporting such climbing, I feel that it's a major leap forward in standards and vision. Look for new crampons, picks and screws from Black Diamond for this futuristic sport. A world cup may be organized for 2010.