Call of the Curtain-@120m, III, M7, WI6 (Right of Curtain Call) FA: Will Gadd, Kim Csizmazia, Roger Chayer, March '01. A two-pitch (or more) mixed line right of Curtain Call, a great variety of climbing and an astounding M7 (honest!) roof. Stubbies, long screws, maybe a red Camalot if you want it but not needed.
Approach: Park as for Curtain Call, about 120K North of Lake Louise on the Parkway. Climb to the large ledge before the final 60M pitch of curtain call, then head right to the smear.
Curtain Call breaks off at least once every year, which is frustrating. I've had my eye on a smear that that forms on the wall to the right of the main pillar for a long time. The smear leads to a huge roof with an obvious break through it, then icicles to the right of the pillar. Kim and I bolted this a month and a half ago but couldn't get back to it until yesterday. The resulting route allows a full ascent of the wall even when the pillar is snapped off. Interestingly, the water is now flowing climber's right of the normal Curtain Call line creating a cool steeper pillar on the lower tiers.
Climb the thin, exciting smear off the big ledge for 30M to a two-bolt belay at the start of the roof. Bring some stubbies, the ice is forms the smear every year but it starts off with some engaging climbing. Then do the big roof with four bolts and a good pin. This is undoubtedly the easiest 10-meter roof I've ever climbed thanks to a large overlap; you can keep your knees or feet on the rock for all but one move, and even get at least two totally no-hands butt rests. The last bolt is "hidden" above the overlap; there's a colossal hold to reach it from, but finding the hold is a bit blind. Swing out onto the curtain and head for the summit.
Descent: Either walk down the gully to the right, or head climber's left to a two-bolt belay. 60M ropes put you back on the pillar ledge and a two-bolt station. A stretcher 60M rap will then exactly reach the ground. 59M ropes won't.
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