Blackbeard, 320m, M5, WI5+R. Grant Meekins and Kirsten Anderson.

Blackbeard is the the right hand line on the N Face of the Little Sister. Approach as for "Big Brother." Start up an obvious groove below the route. A purple sling at 10m is visible from the ground. This was already in place before the first ascent, but it appears to be a bail sling, since no other signs of a previous ascent were found. 50m of M5 with difficult gear placements reaches a belay stance at a crack on the left. A short steep step leads to lower angled snow, going past a 1 bolt rap anchor on the left.

150m of lower angled snow/rock/ice leads to steeper ice. A short apron leads to a 10m overhanging pillar that is poorly attached at the top. Expect exciting exit moves to get off the pillar. WI5+R. A rock belay can be found at 30m, in a crack on the left before the next step, or continue up to an Abalakov anchor at 55m. 45m of WI 4 ice - thin at first - leads to fat ice just before a ledge. Belay on ice.

50m - easy at first then M5 with very little gear - leads to the top of the route and a bolt and piton belay. The piton could be replaced by a bolt.

Descent: 55m rap to Abalakov. 55m rap to snow slope. 150m downclimb to single bolt anchor on skier's right. A second bolt would be welcome. 60m rap to ground.

Cheers,

Grant