New route on Mt. Kidd
“Billy Goats Gruff” 1200 m IV, WI4 R mixed
November 28, 2002
Dave Marra, Jeff Relph
This fun long alpine route is located on Mt. Kidd’s east
face. It begins in the prominent rocky drainage on the left side, referred to as
Kidd bowl. A definite early season route. The
line is easily visible from the road as a beautiful ribbon of ice leading up
left out of Kidd bowl, all the way to a black bowl just below the ridge.
Park at Galatea, and follow the Terrace trail north along the river until below
the prominent drainage rocky drainage.
Rappel and downclimb route. The first ascent party made 6 full rope rappels,
mostly off ice with the final one being off a slung horn. A few small steps can
be walked around on climber’s right.
Gear: 8-10 screws, mostly 10 and 13 cm
½ set of medium wires
2-4 small cams include #2 and #3 TCU
4-6 pitons including KB’s
8 to 10 hours car to car. The route lies in HUGE avalanche terrain,
so get there before the snow does.
The route: Begin with 200m of WI 2 steps up to an obvious snow bowl. Walk up the snow bowl for 140m to a cool cave in the upper left corner.
Step left out of the cave and climb easy mixed ground for 120m followed by 50m of snow the base of a nice 60m, WI 3 pitch.
From a rock belay at the top of this, make a 60m traverse left on snow to a nice, narrow
WI 3 pitch.
Climb this for 40m and continue up 60m of WI 2 mixed terrain, to a 100m snow ribbon leading up to a headwall.
Move left below the headwall to gain a cool Scottish type gully 60m.
From a rock corner at the top of the gully, move right across snow and mixed terrain for 80m to the base of a thin narrow vein of ice.
Ascend the thin vein with minimal protection (good TCU’s on right after about 25m) WI 4 R for 55m to a belay behind a small pillar.
Climb the short freestanding pillar until easy mixed ground is reached, and a belay at 55m.
Climb a short mixed bit and continue 180m up the scree bowl to the ridge for awesome views.