Balzout Direct IV M8+ Wi5 525 metres, Dana Ruddy Eamonn Walsh (More photos here)
FFA Raphael Slawinski, Ian Welsted

Pitch 1-2, 70 metres, climb a left slanting corner system that goes at 5.8, with some dirt sections for the tools, but is mostly hands on climbing, it is also possible to scramble up aways, and then do the whole corner as one pitch.
Pitch 3, 55 metres, classic, mixed and thin ice, one of the best pitches of the route.
Pitch 4, 15 metres, ice to below the dagger.
Pitch 5, 55 metres, drytool past 8 or 9 bolts to the ice above the dagger, grade 5 ice to a belay.
Pitch 6, 50 metres either climb some rock out left or thin ice straight up to the 4+ pillar.
Pitch 7-10, 200 metres, this is the large hose/ramp that is the upper part of Balzout. This was all ice for us, except for the last part of pitch 10, when the ice ends there is an easy rock traverse right to a ridge.
Pitch 11, 30 metres, 5.5 up the ridge to the snow bowl or from the top of the ice, you can continue straight up an easy rock groove then traverse right into the final snow bowl.
Pitch 12, 60 metres, slog up the snow bowl to a 5 metre rock wall were there is a groove of ice that allows passage to the snow slopes above.