Axes of Evil, WI4, 5.5 X
Brent Raymond, Craig Hyslop (Nov.16, 2003)

This route climbs the obvious ice line just before entering the Saddam's
Insane approach gully. I climbed the first pitch a few weeks ago and
came back to deal with the rock climbing on Sunday (Nov.16).

1. WI4, 50m: Climb a thin low angle snow/ice sheild to good ice.  Belay
where the ice eases off before it gets to thin for screws.

2. WI3, 5.4, 40m: Traverse up and left over easy mixed terrain to a
large ledge and thread.  Continue straight left towards the upper ice
flow and down climb a few metres (5.4) on solid rock to a single piton
and a small ledge just right of thin ice.  Belay.  Small nuts, med.
tricams useful.

3. WI4, 5.5 X, 55m: A great pitch!  Climb solid rock above the belay for
a few metres then step left onto the ice.  Make a few moves up and left
on shitty ice to a small, solid rock ledge.  Continue up the ice through
a short steep section to easier terrain.  Ice is marginal in sections.  
Belay on a sloping terrace at the base of a short rock step.  Pitons,
small tricams, small nuts.

4. easy 5th class, 50m: Traverse left on the ledge past a few small
trees and then climb easy rock to a large terrace.  Find the rappel
station (2 fixed tricams) at the climber's left end of the terrace and
rap down about 40m into the Saddam's Insane approach gully.  Either
descend the gully or continue up Saddam's Insane.

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WG Note--there was some confusion about who did what on this route first, here's the email to clear it all up:

Hey Will,

Craigh and I climbed the first pitch of ice earlier in the season and
then came back on the 15th to climb the upper mixed sections. It was our
ablakov on the top of the pitch that the author below mentions seeing
from Saddam's. The 1st pitch was climbed again (evidenced by another
ablakov) by the time we returned, but there was no evidence that the top
bit had been done and we had to leave an anchor behind to rappell back
into the Saddam's approach gully.

The x rating is certainly not applicable to the first pure ice pitch as
noted by the author below, but the third pitch, although not technically
desperate, is run out enough by my standards to warrent the applied
grade. If someone else decides to change this I don't really give a shit
to be honest - its just my opinion!

Hope this clears up any misconceptions.

Cheers,
Brent

> Hi Brent, I’m cleaning up a bunch of errors on my site, trying to
> figure this out:
>
>
> hey will, just looked up on your web page about a new route Axis of
> Evil. i don't know, since the link is not currently working, but there
> is a date of Nov 16. Slawinski senior, Erol Altay and I did this route
> on the 15th. There is no need for X rating on this. I was on Saddam on
> 11.10 and we already saw ablakov sling on the top of the pitch, so for
> sure it was climbed before Nov 10. ciao- r

And, from Robert Rogoz:

 

#1 axis of evil. rafal and i saw red sling on the top of the climb long before date of nov 15. i did this route on nov 16 i think and i am 100% sure it was climbed long before then. i also don't know why they gave rating R or X, the gear was superb throughout the climb (kind of triggered - sounds fishy reaction)