A "Virgin No More"
Sunday Oct. 21, 2001 (Josh Briggs, EamonnWalsh, Virginia Buckley)
Quality route, similar in character to "curtain call". If anyonegoes and does it, it would be real swell if you brought back our rope, two pins, and sling that were left on the first pitch (clip the pins on the way up if you want, but they won't hold anything). Call me at 863-3845 and I'll get some refreshments for you.
130m, IV, 6 R
1) 40m. Mushroomed, chandeliered, hollow, and thin. Very technicaland hard to protect. Belay from rock on right at base of pillar. Fixed anchor.
2) 50m. Climb pillar to smooth shield of grade 5 ice. Pumpy andsteep but better protected than pitch one. Be aware of hanging icicles above belayer. Belay off ice on ledge. Abolakov.
3) 40m. Grade 4 ice to top. Abolakov
The route is on the climbers right (N side) of a large bowl betweenKauffman peaks and Mt. Epaulette. This is the first valley to the north of the "Reality Bath" access on the west side of the icefield parkway. (The "Bath" access valley runs to the south from this point, whereas this valley heads straight west). Park approximately where you would for Murchison Falls. You should be directally across from the buttress forming the north boundary of the bowl containing the route. Look for a faint stream drainage on the west side of the parkway. Head down drainage, cross river, thrash up beside the creek draining the bowl, eventually into moraines, and then small cliff bands. Avoid cliffs where possible, climb small ice steps where not. 3-4 hours to base of route.