Bugaboos Link Up Notes from Jon Walsh


On August 4th and 5th 2005, Jeff Relph and I made a variation to the classic
enchainment of four spires in the Bugaboos. Starting at 8:15 p.m. from
Aplebee, we started with the NE ridge of Bugaboo (aplebee to the south
summit in 2:05!), descended the Kain route, climbed the Krause McCarthy on
Snowpatch, rapelled the route and the Pigeon Snowpatch col, climbed the
Cooper Kor on the East face of Pigeon, down the west ridge, and finished
with the Becky Chouinard on the South Howser, and back to Aplebee in 24.5
hours after starting. We called it 12 pitches due to lots of
simul-climbing: 4 on Snowpatch, 3 on Pigeon, 5 on the S. Howser and Bugaboo
was soloed. Some guy on the summit of Pigeon even called "bull-shit" when
we told him what we were up to. Anyways, we had a lot fun and would
encourage others to try the same link up.
Cheers,
Jon